| Re: Receiving a Kustom K250 amp head [message #22023 is a reply to message #21990] |
Fri, 26 December 2014 13:48   |
Kd5uwl
Messages: 25
Registered: November 2014
|
Junior Member |
|
|
Hi,
Stevem mentioned the screws I need to put the shell on are 2" long and NOT metric. I tried #8 (too small), and #10 (too big). I never knew but I suppose those are metric? Can you tell me where one gets the right sort of non-metric screws, what they are called, and what size they are?
I bought new naugahyde for the bottom and lower front roll today that I will be installing today. Removing the old bottom section was not too hard (lots of staples!), but I see now that the pattern cut isn't super critical .. the edges fold over, so an 1/8" extra this way or that won't hurt anything.
So I'll have the shell ready to put back on today .. but can you help me with the screws?
The GE 335 lamps are now installed and shining blue in the switches, and I have a panel mount fuse holder to install. The existing in-line holder rig job has a 4-amp fuse installed currently. Is that the correct size? Seems about the right size for this wattage of amp if I had to guess.
Thank you!
--kd5uwl
|
|
|
|
| Re: Receiving a Kustom K250 amp head [message #22025 is a reply to message #21990] |
Fri, 26 December 2014 19:57 |
Kd5uwl
Messages: 25
Registered: November 2014
|
Junior Member |
|
|
Hi,
Stevem mentioned the screws needed to hold the shell on are 2" long and NOT metric. Do you have any pointers to where I can find these, and what the size is called? #8 are too small, and #10 are too big. At least they seem to big and I didn't want to force them.
I have new naugahyde I bought today and will be replacing the bottom section with it this evening.
I also have a panel mount fuse holder to install. The existing fuse is a 4 amp fast blow which seems about right .. is this the correct size?
The GE 335 lamps sure look good shining blue through the switches ..
Thanks for your help. If you can help me find the right screws I'll be able to put the amp back in the shell and it's very near complete now. I still have the new power cord to install but I expect to do that this weekend, too.
--kd5uwl
|
|
|
|
| Re: Receiving a Kustom K250 amp head [message #22026 is a reply to message #22025] |
Fri, 26 December 2014 19:59 |
Kd5uwl
Messages: 25
Registered: November 2014
|
Junior Member |
|
|
Sorry .. I guess I have posted two versions of that message about the screws now. I am sorry about that. It appeared to me the first one didn't post .. but I was mistaken.
--kd5uwl
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: Receiving a Kustom K250 amp head [message #22031 is a reply to message #22030] |
Sun, 28 December 2014 09:45 |
Kd5uwl
Messages: 25
Registered: November 2014
|
Junior Member |
|
|
Chicagobill .. yes, I did get the feet with the cabinet. They are on there. But I'm sure you nailed it with the screw designation .. 10-32! Thank you!! I definitely bought 10-24 .. I counted the threads. And of course 10-32 is a much finer thread, noticeably finer. In fact, when you see one or the other it's easy to tell which you are looking at, even without them being side by side. A 10-32 is a fairly fine thread. It's all coming back to me now ..
I'll get 10-32 today and should be in business. Thank you very much!!
I added two more pictures here .. same link as I sent before, but new pics added .. you can see the feet and the new cover.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7re6n9mhsutizak/AADjWRevyAAIMyDEf j3P8s7ma?dl=0
--kd5uwl
|
|
|
|
| Re: Receiving a Kustom K250 amp head [message #22032 is a reply to message #22031] |
Mon, 29 December 2014 18:36 |
Kd5uwl
Messages: 25
Registered: November 2014
|
Junior Member |
|
|
Guys, I now have the power cord replaced with a grounded one, the Bissell recommendation .. looks great and wraps just to the right spot. It's the full original 20' length and I used the original strain relief.
I also installed a panel mount fuse holder in back near the power cord entrance.
With the cabinet re-covered (just the bottom section as described and shown previously), cleaned up, and looking great, I was thinking I was ready to install the chassis and screw it in place when I noticed two things:
(1) The chassis has no top! Now that I see how it installs in the cabinet (which I only recently received) I see that it appears there is supposed to be a top plate which screws to the top of the chassis? I've had the chassis slid into the cabinet without this top plate but I suppose to do it right I should make a new one. I could do it with a thin aluminum rectangle plate of the right size and screw holes drilled in the right locations. But I noticed the front panel has oval cutouts at the edge that must also screw to the top plate somehow? I don't think I could do anything about those, but I could make just a new flat top plate that screws to the top ..
(2) The light in the Polarity switch stays on all the time .. in either Polarity switch setting. That is, the Polarity switch light is on, and if you push the switch it still stays on. Visually the switch appears to be working .. you can see the little contact make and break when the wheel spins with alternate presses of the switch. But the light stays on. Is this the normal behavior?
Perhaps I'm getting picky now. The amp looks and sounds great! The cabinet is all clean and shiny and the chassis is installed in it. I don't have it screwed down yet since I have some final upholstery tweaks I want to do and also thinking about making the top plate I described in #1, above, if it's really missing .. and it sure does appear the original design probably included a top plate.
Thanks again for all the help you have been and continue to be on this project!
--kd5uwl
|
|
|
|
| Re: Receiving a Kustom K250 amp head [message #22040 is a reply to message #21819] |
Wed, 31 December 2014 02:11 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006
Registered: April 2003
|
Senior Member |
|
|
There is normally a metal plate that covers the top of the chassis. It shields the circuitry and it strengthens the chassis.
The lights in both switches are connected together, so it is normal for both to be on as long as the power switch is turned on.
The correct fuse for your amp is a 3 amp slow blow.
|
|
|
|
| Re: Receiving a Kustom K250 amp head [message #22041 is a reply to message #21819] |
Wed, 31 December 2014 06:12 |
stevem
Messages: 4775
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I have many spare top plates if you really feel you must have one, but I pull them off of all my amps for better cooling as with electronic semiconductors ( diodes and transistors )every 25 degree drop in running temp will double there life, just something to chew on there!
[Updated on: Wed, 31 December 2014 06:13] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
| Re: Receiving a Kustom K250 amp head [message #22212 is a reply to message #22041] |
Thu, 22 January 2015 16:19 |
Kd5uwl
Messages: 25
Registered: November 2014
|
Junior Member |
|
|
Stevem,
Thank you SO much for your kind offer. I didn't realize I hadn't replied to you yet but honestly I'm in a real quandary about what to do. I've gone over this and over this, and just can't figure it out. This should be an easy decision but I seem to be in a tailspin over it! I could sure use any suggestions or advice.
Here is why:
Ever since getting the amp as a basket case I thought it would be cool to fix and sell. But now that it is working SO well and sounds SO good, I don't know how I'll part with it. And my wife agrees.
My plan was not just to sell it, or get it just operational and sell it, but to get it up to the point where it was solid enough to be someone's number one gigging amp, not just a spare.
And I think I've done that .. both channels and all jacks work 100% and I've played it extensively into both 4-ohm and 8-ohm loads. ALL pots are completely silent when adjusting .. no crackles, etc. I installed the 20' Bissell 3-prong power cord and it looks real nice. I neatly re-soldered the loose caps that were causing problems, and I installed a socket when I replaced the dual Op Amp in channel one that was faulty. The replacement Op Amp is a period, NOS part from 1979. I replaced the bottom section of vinyl and it just looks great. Both lights have been replaced, and I have two spares. And, I installed an external panel-mount fuse holder near where the power cord enters the chassis.
It was about then that I realized there is no top. I'm getting to my quandary now ..
I agree with you about the heat .. if I were to keep it, I'd likely not seek a top for it. OR, if I had one, I might drill several half inch holes in neat rows to let heat out.
But if I sell it, two things: I don't think it would be right to sell as restored to the point of being someone's number one if I don't have the top for it. But, if I took you up on your offer for a top, would it be right for me to sell it then? Also, I don't know how much you might want for the top.
So I'm really in a tailspin over this! Can you help pull me out?
But one thing remains constant .. I love this amp, it's awesome.
--kd5uwl
|
|
|
|
VintageKustom.com
Search
Help
Members
Register
Login
Home
]