Burnt K250... need replacement PC 5065 [message #6087] |
Fri, 12 August 2005 19:52 |
gmans111
Messages: 10 Registered: August 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Junior Member |
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Thanks for the message board. I've read it from front to back and feel like I've learned a lot of history in a short time.
I recently aquired K250-1 with 2x15 cab (CTS drivers). Previous owner was completely up-front "it don't work; I bought it that way; never had time to look into it". I proudly recanted "I ain't scared". Heck, I went to a Tech school in the '70's (studied electronics). This aught to be fun.
Then I got it home and opened the chassis. Now I'm scared.
Someone attempted some sorta repair already. They decided to replace only ONE of the three bad output transistors (duh); soldered in some new resistors that (questionably close to correct value); then musta called the fire department after power-up. Now there's holes burnt through the pc card. Not a pretty site.
Before I give-up and go shopping for another head, I figured I'd float some questions:
Q: Does anybody have a Kustom boneyard where I might find a clean PC 5065 that I can buy?
Q: Luckily, my chassis already has schematics glued to underside of the cover. But before I invest a bunch of time chasing traces all over the board to reconstruct a component placement diagram, does anyone know of an existing source for this drawing?
Q: The faceplace of my amp has "Hitachi" embossed right into the metal. I mean, it sure looks like a factory-type thing that was done intentionally. It's significantly smaller than the writing that says "Kustom 250" and is positioned directly in the center; along the bottom edge of the faceplate. What the heck did I find?
Thanks in advance for your wisdom.
Greg Mans
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Re: Burnt K250... need replacement PC 5065 [message #6237 is a reply to message #6087] |
Sun, 16 October 2005 14:02 |
gmans111
Messages: 10 Registered: August 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Junior Member |
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So I finally got around to fixing this crispy critter. Before I got my hands on this thing, somebody attempted a previous repair. Man, what a mess! I found wrong component values used in many places. The most damning... R14 was 150ohm instead of 1500ohm. Ouch!
After replacing a truckload of wrong/defective/out-of-tolerence components, my driver board is alive and my initial test sounded pretty good. I really haven't pushed it at all, yet.
QUESTION #1: The nte128/129's and 2n3055's all get really, really warm; even if the unit is just idle (power-on but no signal). I've raised the TO-39's away from the board and installed the only pathetic, wimpy heatsinks I could find. Yet I still worry something ain't right. Any suggestions what to check? Is this heat normal? Am I just paranoid?
QUESTION #2: Speakers thump pretty hard when I power down. Based on date code, the filter caps are original. Will my "thump" clear-up after replacing them? Is this thump normal? Am I just paranoid?
QUESTION #3: My rail voltages are only +/- 36.5v instead of 40v; even when the unit is just idle (power-on but no signal). Is this acceptable? Am I just paranoid?
This is my first Kustom, so my questions stem from my lack of experience/reference. Plus, I haven't worked with electronics since I went to school some 26 years ago. All suggestions, wisdom, and advice is welcome.
Greg
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Re: Burnt K250... need replacement PC 5065 [message #6246 is a reply to message #6239] |
Mon, 17 October 2005 16:47 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006 Registered: April 2003
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Senior Member |
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Greg:
The worst possible amp to work on, is one that has been hacked up by an idiot that shouldn't have been in there, so kudos to you for getting it up and running again!
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I have to agree with Steve here. Something is causing the power amp to draw too much current. Normally all Kustom amp output and driver transistors will be room temperature at idle.
Bill
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Re: Burnt K250... need replacement PC 5065 [message #6254 is a reply to message #6087] |
Tue, 18 October 2005 12:30 |
gmans111
Messages: 10 Registered: August 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Junior Member |
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Steve,
Yes, I replaced all 4 drivers: Q4, Q5, Q8, & Q9 with NTE128/129's.
I repaired one trace by extending a lead on R9 to compensate for the gaping burn hole created by C7, R9, and CR1. There was one more trace repaired previously. Off the top of my head, I can't remember the neighboring component names.
I used a schematic to determine correct resistor values on all of my replacements. I verified each new component with an ohm meter before installing. I'm reasonably confident the values were correct. I just hope I put everything in the right place.
You bring up good points. I'll do a thorough visual inspection tonight.
Now... regarding CR1 and CR2. CR1 was nothing but two leads and black powder when I got this thing. CR2 checked okay with an ohm meter, but I replaced it anyway 'cuz it looked thermally abused. Impossible to read numbers off either one.
Under "Replacement Part Suggestions", I found a thread titled "K250 diodes". chicagobill posted "The bias string diodes are two 1N3193 (axials mounted on the board) and one 1N3754 (mounted on the heat sink with the output transistors)"
I couldn't find 1N3193's, but www.nteinc.com crosses it to NTE116. It only takes a few minutes to warm-up the soldering iron if you recommend I bail on the nte stuff.
I look forward to your voltage reference, Steve. I am quite optomistic that comparing against a working unit will reveal what's wrong.
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