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Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4367]

Fri, 18 June 2004 17:18

fuzzy4dice
Messages: 49
Registered: June 2004
Location: NJ

Member

Hi!

Just bought (what I believe to be) a Kustom 100 bass amp. The cab has one 15" speaker and I want to see the back of it so that I can see what kind of speaker it is.

I took all the screws off of the back panel on the cabinet but I'm having a hard time getting it off. How is this done?

I tried pushing it through the portholes...but I felt I was doing it to hard and got scared.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

ezt

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4368 is a reply to message #4367]

Fri, 18 June 2004 20:25

KustomBlues
Messages: 494
Registered: June 2001
Location: Michigan

Senior Member

Have you tried using a bread knife between the edges around the cab back and the sides? Stick it in there are try prying it gently. There is a seal that usually gets sticky over the years and kinda poops it all up. Make sure that you take aALL the screws out of the back of the cabinet. I am assuming that this is a speaker cabinet and not a combo, correct?

Deb

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4370 is a reply to message #4367]

Sat, 19 June 2004 00:56

fuzzy4dice
Messages: 49
Registered: June 2004
Location: NJ

Member

Deb,

Thanks. Is pushing the back of the cab through the portholes a good idea?

I will try to pry it off a little more in the morning.

What about the speaker wire input jack on the back of the cab. Do I need to take that off too, or will there be enough slack in the wire that I can remove the rear and not have to unscrew the input jack.

By the way...it is a 1x15 cab. I'll post pics soon.

Thanks,

ezt

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4371 is a reply to message #4370]

Sat, 19 June 2004 09:47

RoyC
Messages: 97
Registered: April 2000
Location: East Central Illinois

Member

I would think that pushing it out through the porthole would be the ideal way - better than the butter knife method. Like Deb says, all the screws need to be out (except the jackplate). There should be sufficient slack in the wires to accomodate this.

I wish my hand was small enough that I could just reach through the porthole. Let us know what treasures you find in there.

[Updated on: Sun, 27 June 2004 19:27]

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4372 is a reply to message #4370]

Sun, 20 June 2004 22:54

KustomBlues
Messages: 494
Registered: June 2001
Location: Michigan

Senior Member

Man, if you can get your hands in the ports to push, feel around and make sure you aren't bumping into anything--but give her a try. There should be enough slack in the input jack wire to let you pull the back off, unless some idiot messed it up before. Rolling Eyes

Rolling Eyes

I think if you have all the screw out, then it's probably just the seal sticking to the naugh. A butter knife is helpful, just use the unserrated edge, and no sharp knives.....

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4373 is a reply to message #4371]

Sun, 20 June 2004 22:58

KustomBlues
Messages: 494
Registered: June 2001
Location: Michigan

Senior Member

Roy, the butter knife method does work! You have to be careful and use the unserrated edge and take your time. If he has small enough hands to fit in the ports, I'll think he'll do good to try that too. That old rubber seal gets like glue after all these years. I replaced all that when I opened each cab up.... they seal better then too, with no air leaks to "fart." Cool

Cool

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4374 is a reply to message #4367]

Mon, 21 June 2004 07:05

stevem
Messages: 4775
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY

Senior Member

Hi all. Your safest bet is to get a lenght of 2x4 to incert it thru the port, and give that a shot with a hammer. Dont pry, it always rips up the covering on the back panel. Set the cab up so it is standing with its back about 2 inches away from a wall, then when the back pops out you will not over extend the speaker cable.This all my be a moot point. if the speaker jack is still on its original mounting plate, that will say on it what the cab was loaded with, and since the back is so hard to get off its probily been unopened since day one. Heres a tip for original speakers. If their is no shiny aluminum voice coil cover on the center front face of the speaker, and since its a 100 model its a CTS brand speaker, if its got a 3 inch aluminum dome its an altec lansing, if its a 4 inch dome its a jb lansing, these are for bass. Other ones for guitar are, no aluminum dome is jensen, a aluminum dome with a black hole in the center is CTS brand.

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4375 is a reply to message #4374]

Mon, 21 June 2004 09:24

pleat
Messages: 1454
Registered: June 2004
Location: Belding, Mi

Senior Member

I used a 2x2 through the port to remove a sticky back. The 115 cabinet in question was offered with a CTS,Jensen,Altec and either a JBL D130F lead or the JBL D140F bass speaker. I would remove the back to make sure, after 30+ years, no telling what might be in it for a speaker and what might have been tossed through the ports.
Don

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4378 is a reply to message #4367]

Mon, 21 June 2004 18:27

fuzzy4dice
Messages: 49
Registered: June 2004
Location: NJ

Member

Thanks for all of the info and advice everyone! I decided to get that back off New Jersey style! I stuck a baseball bat through the portholes and whacked them until the back loosened!

The inside of the cabinet was great! It was dusty, but in very good condition. It all appears to be original. I was glad I didn't run across any mouse skeletons or anything. I Febreezed the padding and wiped off some of the dust with a damp rag.

In general the amp is in good condition. It certainly woulden't be ready for anyone's pristine collection, but it's definitely worth the $80.00 I paid for it!

With bass, it sounds great. It starts to distort around 11 o'clock with the bass dimed. But it seems loud enough. The Bright channel seems to be working better than the Normal channel and my "low" inputs seem to have more kick than my "high" inputs. With guitar it's pretty nice...nice and clean. However, it does start to break up around one or two o'clock. Not that I'm unhappy with the sound, it's unique, I was just expecting it to be clean as far as the eye can see.

There are some frays in the naugahyde and some small paint spatters, but it's in great shape. I cleaned it up well and I'll armourall it tonight.

How can I tell if this is a bass amp, rather than guitar? Were the heads to the bass and guitar amps the same? Is it just the 15" cab that made it a bass amp? I am also trying to figure out what speaker is in there...as it is pretty vague to me.

I have included some pictures that ought to help you guys help me. Any info you can give me would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks...

http://img69.photobucket.com/albums/v211/fuzzy4dice/2004_061 9Image0007.jpg

http://img69.photobucket.com/albums/v211/fuzzy4dice/2004_061 9Image0001.jpg

http://img69.photobucket.com/albums/v211/fuzzy4dice/2004_061 9Image0005.jpg

http://img69.photobucket.com/albums/v211/fuzzy4dice/2004_061 9Image0006.jpg

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4379 is a reply to message #4378]

Mon, 21 June 2004 19:01

woody96
Messages: 107
Registered: May 2001

Senior Member

Man, you said you got that K100 rig for $80 Shocked

Shocked

....you're kidding! What a deal...and looks like a great CTS speaker too.......where did ya get it? Rolling Eyes

Rolling Eyes

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4380 is a reply to message #4379]

Mon, 21 June 2004 19:44

woody96
Messages: 107
Registered: May 2001

Senior Member

I am pretty sure that a K100-1 is a bass amp head, and that if it was a K100-2, that'd be guitar.......everyone agree with this?? Cool

Cool

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4381 is a reply to message #4367]

Mon, 21 June 2004 20:11

fuzzy4dice
Messages: 49
Registered: June 2004
Location: NJ

Member

Yup, I said $80.00 all right!

Thanks for the info on the bass amp / guitar amp model number difference. Can we get an amen on that?

Anyway, a good friend of mine's brother once wanted to play bass. However, this dream was never realized and this sucker has been sitting on thier enclosed porch for 4 or 5 years.

So, I mosey on in and say, "Well, then there...wanna sell that sucker to me?" and viola...$80.00 later I am a full-blown member of the Kustom club and armoralling Naugahyde.

I love finding musical instruments that have been neglected and forgotten about. What was it gonna do? Sit on the porch for another 10 years and end up on the curb? How Sad!

ezt

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4385 is a reply to message #4367]

Tue, 22 June 2004 07:22

stevem
Messages: 4775
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY

Senior Member

Hi. The standard guitar head and bass head are the same model. That 137 stamped in white in the lower left hand corner of the speaker is the CTS code, and the 4 digets stamped after it, from what I can see (7021) means it was made in 1970, 21st week.

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4386 is a reply to message #4367]

Tue, 22 June 2004 09:25

fuzzy4dice
Messages: 49
Registered: June 2004
Location: NJ

Member

Ok, so now we're back on the bass head and guitar head being interchangeable.

I guess it's just the cabinet that determines what would speakers would be better suited for what?

Are the CTS speakers the cheapest ones that were available?

I was playing it again last night and (with bass) it reallly wants to fuzz out around 10 o'clock. I wish it had more headroom. I don't think the speaker is blown...I just think it's gotten rickety. God knows what it's been through.

Any suggestions for a replacement 15"?

ezt

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4387 is a reply to message #4386]

Tue, 22 June 2004 10:21

woody96
Messages: 107
Registered: May 2001

Senior Member

Tell ya what...this may be heresy condiering this great vintage amp....adn buying a new speaker for it and not a vintage speaker but-----I would humbly recommend a Weber "California" 15.....what an awesome speaker!!! I got mine with an aluminum dust cap (for a bit brighter tone) and in 16 ohm, 100 watts....I put it in a 1963 Gibson Atlas IV cabinet...using it with the original Atlas head---approx 50 watts---WHEW!!! what a difference and this speaker is incredible!! I was looking for great tone, HEADROOM, and CLEAN< CLEAN CLEAN....that is exactly what this speaker is designed for! All of the Weber speakers are made in the good ole US of A, hand made one at a time---cost me $125 shipped!!! I would recommend them wholeheartedly either for guitar or bass applications! Cool

Cool

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4388 is a reply to message #4386]

Tue, 22 June 2004 11:07

pleat
Messages: 1454
Registered: June 2004
Location: Belding, Mi

Senior Member

The literature section of this site shows all the combinatons of both the 100-1 and the 100-2 heads with either the 115 cabinet and the 2x12 cabinet with both cabinets and heads being offered in JBL, Altec, Jensen, and CTS speakers. The trick you want to do is get a 8 ohm speaker in that cabinet. The head with preform at maximum and increase your headroom. The two heads were mixed and matched with several different cabinets that had either a 8 ohm total load for the 2x12 cabinets and 8 or 16 ohm load speakers for the 115 cabinet, depending on the brand of speaker. I had a 115 cabinet that came with a 8 ohm ALtec speaker and I have owned another 115 cabinet that came with the 16 ohm CTS. Kustom installed the 8 ohm Altec in the 100SC amp. It was probably more of inventory control that all the 15" CTS speakers I have ever seen in the 2x15 and 3x15 cabinets were all 16 ohm.

Another option is that you keep your cabinet stock and buy my 100 reverb head and 115 CTS cabinet and run both cabinets in parallel to get your amp to a 8 ohm total load and run dual 15 cabinets. That would be kool.
Don

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4389 is a reply to message #4367]

Tue, 22 June 2004 15:34

stevem
Messages: 4775
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY

Senior Member

Yes, the bass and non-reverb/tremolo guitar heads are the same thing.Those CTS speakers are not all that bad, your lack of clean head room is the head.You would be pleased by driving that 15 with a seperate power amp fed off of the kustom speaker output. I will post you a simple 2 resistor load you can make that will let you do just that on wednesday.

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4390 is a reply to message #4367]

Thu, 24 June 2004 07:14

stevem
Messages: 4775
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY

Senior Member

Hi, If you get a 2200 ohm , and a 100 ohm resistor, both 1/2 watters you can knock down your amps output to drive a line input of another power amp. heres how. between the hot output of the kustom(tip of the 1/4" jack) hook up one end of the 2200 resistor, the other end goes to the hot input of the power amp. If its a XLR connector that would be pin 2. The minus connection of the kustoms output jack goes to pin 3 of the XLR. The 100 ohm resistor goes across the hot and minus of eitheir end. A 300 watt rms power would be plenty. You should run the power amps input trim at half, this would give you all most 3 times the amout of clean headroom than what you have now, and the speaker should be fairly safe from blowing.

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4391 is a reply to message #4380]

Thu, 24 June 2004 11:00

KustomBlues
Messages: 494
Registered: June 2001
Location: Michigan

Senior Member

The K100-1 is a bass head. It sounds much better for guitar too, as long as you use an effects unit. In a side by side comparison with a 100-2, using the same cab via and A/B box, the 100-1 has a fatter and warmer sound. The 100-2 has a thinner, sometimes screechier sound. Between those 2 models, I prefer a 100-1 head, and I play bass and guitar. (I really love the 250 heads) When you add the extra frills the 100-2 head offers, it affects the end sound. Do a side by side comparison for yourself. I know pleat has done this as well...

[Updated on: Thu, 24 June 2004 11:02]

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4393 is a reply to message #4367]

Fri, 25 June 2004 18:40

fuzzy4dice
Messages: 49
Registered: June 2004
Location: NJ

Member

Holy Mackeral SteveM..thanks so much for the info, but you've went and gotten a little over my head! I am not the technical wunderkind you think I am.

So, the early break-up is not the fault of the gorgeous CTS speaker in there? Is that what I'm getting? It's somehow the head that buzzing it all up. Or maybe my settings are stupid.

I just want this as a back-up bass amp, but I wish it had a little more balls before it started to break up. I don't know if I want to involve another power amp. I play the bass, but it's not my primary instrument.

Hey Kustom Blues...if you were stranded with my amp and cabinet (15" CTS) what setting would you put it on? Considering you have the bass volume up all the way?

I really want to make this work stock. And SteveM...if you can suggest anything else that I can do to the head to give it more headroom please do...just please keep it elementary.

Thanks!!!

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4397 is a reply to message #4391]

Sun, 27 June 2004 14:14

pleat
Messages: 1454
Registered: June 2004
Location: Belding, Mi

Senior Member

I do prefer the model 1 head over the k100-2 head any day of the week. I use the model 1 head and love the normal channel for guitar work. It has more gain than the bright channel, and with a guitar processor it rocks.
I would again make sure you have a 8 ohm speaker in your cabinet, and if the speaker that is in it is a 16 ohm, replace it, you want more headroom, 8 ohm is the right impedance for that head.
Have fun,
Don

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4410 is a reply to message #4367]

Wed, 30 June 2004 18:35

fuzzy4dice
Messages: 49
Registered: June 2004
Location: NJ

Member

So you guys basically all agree that the early break-up of the bass is due to the speaker being 16 ohms and not the head?

I'll have to see if I can try it out on another 15 inch cab.

Thanks,

ezt

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4412 is a reply to message #4410]

Thu, 01 July 2004 11:37

chicagobill
Messages: 2006
Registered: April 2003

Senior Member

ezt:
I think what everyone is trying to say here, is that the K-100 head is a 50 watt r.m.s. amp and it will only reach maximum power output with an 8 ohm load. Using the 16 ohm speaker that you have in the cabinet will reduce the power output by maybe 20%-30%, allowing your 50 watt amp to develop only about 35-40 watts. So in order to get the most out of your K-100 head, change the speaker to an efficient 8 ohm speaker, or add a second 16 ohm cabinet.

Remember that the head is only 50 watts. Not a lot of power for bass by today's standards. Back in the day, 50 or 100 watt amps were state of the art.
Bill

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4414 is a reply to message #4367]

Thu, 01 July 2004 18:19

fuzzy4dice
Messages: 49
Registered: June 2004
Location: NJ

Member

Thanks for putting it in perspective Bill.

ezt

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4423 is a reply to message #4412]

Mon, 05 July 2004 19:28

KustomBlues
Messages: 494
Registered: June 2001
Location: Michigan

Senior Member

Bass guitar demands more power to generate the tone you need. A 50 watt head will work fine for most practice situations, but you can always mic your setup out in the live situation too, as long as you can hear yourself and your PA has some goos subs.

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #7723 is a reply to message #4368]

Fri, 13 October 2006 22:27

tweed112
Messages: 34
Registered: January 2006
Location: Mass

Member

I have a question hopefully you might be able to help me with?
Ok so I finally got the back off this K100 gold I bought 2 weeks ago..it was a pain but Its off
1. why did they use this sealer, mine was like thick black tar?
2. and what do you think is the best way for me to get (ALL) this (TAR) of my cab? I tried cleaner. itried peeling it. man this stuff wont come off and Im afraid I might ruin the naug trying to do this..should I leave all that tar on there? I would really like to get (ALL) of it off
any help would be great....Thanks

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #7727 is a reply to message #7723]

Sat, 14 October 2006 13:21

LesS
Messages: 478
Registered: December 2002

Senior Member

I would just leave it on there.
I hate this stuff too - no matter how careful you are some ends up getting on something.
If you do get some on the cabinet where you can see it after the back is put back on, you can use skin-so-soft to get it off. It will work on a small spot but I would not try to remove a lot with it.
-Les S

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #7729 is a reply to message #4367]

Mon, 16 October 2006 07:07

stevem
Messages: 4775
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY

Senior Member

You can get butyl sealer in a rope type form from a auto body shop and or some well stocked auto parts stores.You can buy it in differing diameters and if you lay it on the wood strips that the cabinet back screws go into, and then place some cut strips of plastic garbage bag on top you will seal the back and also make removal the next time easy.You may not need sealer on the back unless you are playing bass and moving alot of air.Kustom had to add the sealer if fill the low gaps on the screw strips where the tuck n roll did not overlap due to popping/puffing and buzzing sounds stemming from air pumping thru these gaps sometimes.

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #7737 is a reply to message #7727]

Mon, 16 October 2006 11:57

C4ster
Messages: 686
Registered: June 2001
Location: Mukwonago, WI (Milwaukee...

Senior Member

I found simple mineral spirits work well. Just use a putty knife or other scraper to remove the heavy stuff and then use a soaked paper towel or paper shop towel to remove the remnants. It is a b*tch of a job though. Put closed foam self adhesive weather stripping in its place to keep the cabinet from porting air out the back from around the perimiter when you are finished.
Good luck
Conrad

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #7740 is a reply to message #4367]

Mon, 16 October 2006 13:13

stevem
Messages: 4775
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY

Senior Member

Good tip! since mineral spirts is a natural product it probibly will not hurt the tuck n roll.

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #7744 is a reply to message #7740]

Mon, 16 October 2006 13:52

C4ster
Messages: 686
Registered: June 2001
Location: Mukwonago, WI (Milwaukee...

Senior Member

I found it actually shines up real nice. A little soap and water afterwards and then Armorall.
Conrad

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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #7821 is a reply to message #4380]

Mon, 30 October 2006 20:34

tweed112
Messages: 34
Registered: January 2006
Location: Mass

Member

Yes as far as I know there are only 2 types of K100 piggybacks
K100-1 (no reverb)(Bass) and K100-2 (reverb-Tremolo)

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