3 prong cord and Hiss questions [message #16683] |
Mon, 13 February 2012 18:05 |
chip filbry
Messages: 5 Registered: February 2012 Location: Ventura, California
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Junior Member |
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I am back with a Kustom K-100. Started in 1979 with a gold K-100 piggyback and now have gotten a Cascade K-100. I want to change to a 3 prong cord, but here is my question. I have seen pictures with the orange cap on and without.
1. Does the orange cap need to be removed when installing a 3 prong cord?
I notice some hiss when amp is on and have this question.
2. Would using a heat gun "warm up" caps and reduce some hiss?
thanks for your reply
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Re: 3 prong cord and Hiss questions [message #16684 is a reply to message #16683] |
Mon, 13 February 2012 23:02 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2005 Registered: April 2003
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Senior Member |
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Welcome to the place.
If the three wire cord is correctly installed the cap can remain in the amp if you want. Some people remove it, but it would only cause a problem if it were ever to short. If it shorts out, one side of the line would be connected to the metal chassis. If this were to happen the chassis which is connected to ground should blow the power fuse.
As for the hiss there are many causes of this and heating parts may or may not help. How bad is the hiss compared to the other Kustom amp that you have?
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Re: 3 prong cord and Hiss questions [message #16762 is a reply to message #16683] |
Sun, 04 March 2012 13:02 |
stevem
Messages: 4772 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
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Senior Member |
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I would have to compair both schematics, but off the top of my head I think that the first 3 gain stages on each of your channels would be the same as on the -2 model head. By this I mean at least in regards to the transistors used.
The driver and output stage would be the same after all the effects stuff with out question, and some times the input gain stage transistor at the driver is the noise maker of the bunch!
Note that before you pull the circuit board off of the front to panel to work on it, there is a metal cased diode held in a clip inbetween the the two output transistors on the C channel mounting bar on the floor of the amp.
This doiode must be pulled from the clip with care, as its leads can snap off quite easy.
In fact I would first put a dab of silicone sealer over the leads at the diode and let it cure before doing anything as far as moving the board back from the front panel.
The blob of sealer will greatly aid in keeping the diodes leads from bending and snapping.
Also note the triangular black slip on connector on each output transistor, these must go back on the same way, so note which side the yellow and blue wires where at.
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