B-4 Hiss [message #12968] |
Sun, 14 February 2010 11:28 |
ellum68
Messages: 71 Registered: November 2007 Location: Sioux City, IA
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Yup, another hiss thread. You can listen to it right here. IIRC I've changed Q300-302 and Q400-402 transistors trying to tame this noise. Should there be other transistors replaced or should I go after the metal film resistors? I remember someone talking about a bulletin where Kustom advised going after the resistors tied to the bases of certain transistors. Specific locations are appreciated because I'm not quite all the bright.
[Updated on: Sun, 14 February 2010 12:59] Report message to a moderator
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Re: B-4 Hiss [message #12990 is a reply to message #12989] |
Mon, 15 February 2010 20:55 |
ellum68
Messages: 71 Registered: November 2007 Location: Sioux City, IA
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Alrighty, I just desoldered both preamp boards with no change at all. Thankfully that takes alot componets out of the equation. I take it the power amp is the next place to go? I measured the big filter caps at around 4,400mfd each. Where should I check on the power amp?
[Updated on: Mon, 15 February 2010 22:53] Report message to a moderator
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Re: B-4 Hiss [message #13012 is a reply to message #12997] |
Tue, 16 February 2010 14:50 |
ellum68
Messages: 71 Registered: November 2007 Location: Sioux City, IA
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Q700 and Q701 have been just replaced. I'm out of NTE159's, so I'll have to wait on Q703. Changing Q700/701 helped a little, but not alot. I would say this thing hisses 4x louder than my other Kustoms. Definatley not normal. I pulled every tantalum on the right 2/3 of that board and tested them. All fell within spec. Some were suprisingly close! Would touching up the solder on all the joints be of any help?
[Updated on: Tue, 16 February 2010 15:45] Report message to a moderator
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Re: B-4 Hiss [message #13013 is a reply to message #12968] |
Tue, 16 February 2010 16:25 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006 Registered: April 2003
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Don't forget that even though a cap can test good on a meter, once it is charged with a voltage it could start to breakdown and create noises.
I would be tempted to change out some of the carbon comp resistors around Q701 and Q702. Even if you only used carbon film (rather than metal film) you may find a difference in the noise levels.
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Re: B-4 Hiss [message #13018 is a reply to message #12968] |
Wed, 17 February 2010 11:42 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006 Registered: April 2003
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Your friend is right about the differential pair at the front end of the power amp. The design works best with a matched pair there.
Let us know how it all turns out.
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Re: B-4 Hiss [message #13022 is a reply to message #13018] |
Wed, 17 February 2010 12:28 |
ellum68
Messages: 71 Registered: November 2007 Location: Sioux City, IA
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Will do! Transistor matching adds a little wait time from Mouser, but it's worth it. Ya, I need to have my friend pass on some of his knowledge. He used to work in the lab area when we had a Zenith plant in town. He's the same fella that taught me how to use a 100w gun for jobs like these. I thought he was nuts until I started turning out better looking work then with my 35w pencil. Just be sure and don't dawdle!
[Updated on: Wed, 17 February 2010 12:59] Report message to a moderator
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Re: B-4 Hiss [message #13106 is a reply to message #12968] |
Fri, 05 March 2010 23:06 |
ellum68
Messages: 71 Registered: November 2007 Location: Sioux City, IA
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Got it all back together and now get a LOUD hum out the speakers. So, I'm pretty bummed and disappointed with myself. I haven't a clue where to look at for my screw up. Fortunately I made a copy of the transistor location diagram and penciled a map of every resistor I swapped along with its value and color bands. I have pictures of the board loaded with the original resistors and this map is 100% correct. I just finished checking the board and every new resistor is of the correct value. I also compared my new tanatalum capacitors against a power amp board in my K400 and I have the polarity correct. The only thing I have think of is the transistor pair of the comparator section. I used a NTE159 matched pair. Is not the pinout read by having the flat side of the transistor facing towards you? They also were heatsinked during installation. I do not have the diode by the output transistor in its clip however. I'm terrified of breaking a lead and don't want to clip it back down until I'm done.
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FOUND IT! NTE159MCP is NOT a matched pair of NTE159s. It's a matched NTE159 and NTE123AP. Go figure. Gonna go change it now.
[Updated on: Fri, 05 March 2010 23:34] Report message to a moderator
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Re: B-4 Hiss [message #13107 is a reply to message #12968] |
Sat, 06 March 2010 00:01 |
ellum68
Messages: 71 Registered: November 2007 Location: Sioux City, IA
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Alright, I yanked out that NTE123AP and put in an NTE159. The amp works now. I still have hiss, but it seems much more level now (more ocean in your ear, instead of bacon sizzle). I might just be time to live with it I guess.
[Updated on: Sat, 06 March 2010 00:17] Report message to a moderator
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Re: B-4 Hiss [message #13112 is a reply to message #12968] |
Sat, 06 March 2010 12:26 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006 Registered: April 2003
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The NTE159MCP is a pair of Matched Complimentary Pair of transistors, one NPN and one PNP, like what would be used in a push pull output section.
I'm not sure of what you replaced on the power amp board, all of the resistors and tantalum caps? All of the transistors?
And now if you disconnect the preamps, does the hiss level change?
[Updated on: Sat, 06 March 2010 12:26] Report message to a moderator
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Re: B-4 Hiss [message #13114 is a reply to message #13112] |
Sat, 06 March 2010 13:55 |
ellum68
Messages: 71 Registered: November 2007 Location: Sioux City, IA
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Ya, the transistor issue was just my ignorance. It's a little emabarassing, but at least I'm wiser for the experience. I changed six tantalums. IIRC all of them were right of the pre-amp connections. The resistors changed were everything to the right of the pre-amp hook up and above the heatsinks of the driver transistors. Transistors Q700-702 were replaced. I haven't unhooked the preamps yet. I'm still at work (shh, dont tell).
[Updated on: Sat, 06 March 2010 14:12] Report message to a moderator
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