Plastic handles [message #23418] |
Tue, 14 July 2015 09:00 |
slk854
Messages: 192 Registered: January 2015
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Senior Member |
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Guys I am giving it some serious thought to purchase a plastic injection machine. I have access to CNC so the molds would not be a problem. I am just wondering how many black plastic handles would be needed to assure Kustom collectors a good supply. I am in the thinking stages right now so I have no idea what the raw plastic material cost would be? It would be much easier to find out who is making them already but that seams to be a dark secret.
Steve
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Re: Plastic handles [message #23420 is a reply to message #23418] |
Tue, 14 July 2015 11:29 |
stevem
Messages: 4774 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
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Senior Member |
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Some thoughts would be that some late 50s to mid 60s Gibson amps use to come with near the same handle but in clear plastic, ( who made them here I do not know ) and the current owners of the Kustom name use to use them on the 1999 and up line of T&C amps , and these handles while just slightly different in foot print where made in China.
May be since they are not using these type of handles on there current line of amps you could pry the name of the manufacturer out of them and see if they are still making, or able to make them?
The biggest pain in the ass and time consumer about you doing a repo is to do it right the metal parts need to be sent out and chromed unless you start of with stainless!
[Updated on: Tue, 14 July 2015 11:30] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Plastic handles [message #23421 is a reply to message #23418] |
Tue, 14 July 2015 11:53 |
Kustom_Bart
Messages: 601 Registered: October 2010 Location: Greenville, MichiGUN
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Senior Member |
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Not worth it, as a 21 year mold maker and engineer, not enough demand and you can buy them cheap enough already. Here is the site. If you buy a bunch at once you can get a discount price too. Look half way down the page. They unscrew and screw directly into original handles and you can cut off the mounts that wont work and use your old mounts on the new straps. Also the insert has been redesigned so they last and bear the weight much better than the originals did. They work perfectly.
http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/howto/parts/schandles. htm
[Updated on: Tue, 14 July 2015 11:57] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Plastic handles [message #23429 is a reply to message #23418] |
Tue, 14 July 2015 23:14 |
Kustom_Bart
Messages: 601 Registered: October 2010 Location: Greenville, MichiGUN
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Senior Member |
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Here is the problem with building a mold, this would not be just an open and shut mold, plus if you are going to take the time to make it a single cavity mold you may as well make it a 4 cavity mold. one shot 4 parts. about .25 ea to mold and that would include the material as long as you used regrind at a high percentage and who cares, it isn't a dashboard showpiece. Open and shut would make the sides, then you have the under cut for the strap this would take a slide and that is where the work begins, timing slides, spotting them, and then finishing and matching the metal where it parts and meets. You have to have a horn pin to move the slide rearward and forward and a heal block to hold it forward while under pressure. This is at all different angles then you need ejector plates to hold your ejector pins that push the pieces out of the mold when they solidify. The material would be P20 steel and it has to be thick enough to not crush, warp, or bend under the pressure of the press. It is cheaper to have someone run it than run it yourself, trust me, I have been down that road. I have my own molds that I have built. I built my own duck and goose call molds and the internal parts (guts) for the calls as well. I got the material for free, machine time for free and got paid to make them because we were slow at work and the boss wouldn't lay me off. He didn't want to lose me to another shop. For you personally to buy the materials and to do this you would have at least 10K into the mold if you could do it all yourself. You would need it programmed and designed first. Not trying to rain on your idea, just not enough demand to recoup your funds. Plus you have to drill water lines throughout the mold bases to keep it all cool and have the fittings and hoses to run the water through it. I used a gun drill on mine, that is more money if you have to pay someone to do it. You will have to have water in the slides as well. A lot of work and money. You will also need a locating ring, spru and runner and gate system and be able to figure out the velocity and speed needed to fill the cavity with the material and possibly vent the cavities and not make them leak out plastic.
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Re: Plastic handles [message #23449 is a reply to message #23418] |
Thu, 16 July 2015 14:52 |
slk854
Messages: 192 Registered: January 2015
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Senior Member |
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The elf place gets theirs from the wholesaler:http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/Products.html
The crazy thing is the handles I have on my cabs all measure something a little different, but out of them all 4 1/4 center to center seams to be the correct measurement. The elf place is giving you center to center of the stud. The wholesaler is giving you inside measurements which is approximate. I would bet they are exactly the same as Brettuns handles. I bet also that the wholesaler is selling them to Brettuns as well. I think the best thing to do would be to give Ohio Travel Bag a call and ask them to actually measure center to center of the handle part. Hey even better yet if someone here knows anyone close to that wholesaler they could stop in and measure them.
A 50% discount is not too shabby in my book if they are the right size handles..
Steve
[Updated on: Thu, 16 July 2015 15:13] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Plastic handles [message #24086 is a reply to message #23418] |
Thu, 29 October 2015 13:23 |
AshleyAckley
Messages: 17 Registered: October 2015 Location: Minneapolis
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Junior Member |
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I am all over this thread! Carrying my stuff in and out every weekend sucks when your grabbing bare metal.
Slow to wit but worth the wait.
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Re: Plastic handles [message #24115 is a reply to message #23418] |
Sun, 01 November 2015 16:12 |
Kustom_Bart
Messages: 601 Registered: October 2010 Location: Greenville, MichiGUN
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Senior Member |
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It is the same guy that makes the wooden inserts and sells "Original" knobs for 20-30.00 ea.. The new inserts are molded much better and will last and not twist inside the strap like the originals and break.
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