| Re: K100-2 Hiss but no other output [message #21229 is a reply to message #21116] |
Thu, 21 August 2014 16:45   |
daveobergoenner@gmail.com
Messages: 104
Registered: January 2007
Location: Missouri
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Senior Member |
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Jerry:
Nichicon caps would be my close second choice. Very good quality for the most part.
They did have a few types that suffered the expanding cap syndrome a few years back (bad electrolyte paste), but I think they have corrected all those problems now. Just make sure you get fresh stock. Your friend would probably know more about all that than I do. Perhaps you can update us after speaking with him about which type would be best for service in our Kustom amps.?. I do usually try to go with 105 degree C rated caps, just because they seem to last longer, and be of better quality.
I was worried about the turn-on, in-rush current blowing fuses on my K200 head too after I more than tripled the original factory filter cap values, but so far, the original fuse has not blown...much to my surprise. I would rather have an easily replaceable fuse socket on the rear of the amp myself, and may still add one.
I'd also like to add an MOV after the fuse to protect the amp from surges and over-voltage. Some may think that's silly, but way back in the 70's my band had an outdoor gig, and the generator we were getting power from went crazy, and started pumping out about 200+ volts. Our Kustom amps and PA were OK, only suffering blown fuses. The guy with the Hammond B3 and a different brand of solid-state amp was not so fortunate.
I've also had stage hands inadvertently put 240 up to the 120 volt sockets on the stage. Trust me, it happens.
Anyway, a heavy duty MOV after a replaceable fuse should protect my amp.
Dave O.
Dave 0 Wall-O-Bass
Webpage - <a href="http://webpages.charter.net/daveobieone/" target="_blank">http://webpages.charter.net/daveobieone/</a >
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