| Kustom Commander fizzes out after 30 minutes of play (why?) [message #14121] |
Tue, 27 July 2010 13:58  |
ethan
Messages: 5
Registered: July 2010
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Junior Member |
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hey guys! My Kustom Commander fizzes out after about 30 minutes of rockin' out tuff. I figure something is over heating, but I am not sure where to start. i don't see anything damaged physically.
Does any one know where is a good place to start looking inside?
Is this a common problem?
Thanks,
Ethan, Louisville, KY
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| Re: Kustom Commander fizzes out after 30 minutes of play (why?) [message #14131 is a reply to message #14121] |
Wed, 28 July 2010 05:56  |
stevem
Messages: 4773
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
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Senior Member |
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If in the process of fizzing out does the pilot lamp goes out also? If so than the cutting out is caused by the thermosatic circuit breaker going open.
This could be due to a bias problem in the output stage running the output transistors too hot, or it could just be the T sat itself failing when it gets up to a certain temperature due to age.
The circuit breaker is all of a 4 dollar item and very easy to replace.
If I recall right they are rated to open at 186 degrees, so the rear lower chassie of the amp would feel quite hot to the touch for a good breaker to do its thing and go open.
If the lamp stays on when the sound cuts out then it could be due to the moldex connectors used in these making a intermitant connection( like the connector going from the preamp circuit board to the output stage driver board), or it could be a bad solder joint, or a failing semiconductor.
If you go to Radio Shack you can pick up a can of frezze spray and use it to cool down sections of the amp and narrow down where the problem lies.
[Updated on: Wed, 28 July 2010 05:57] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Kustom Commander fizzes out after 30 minutes of play (why?) [message #14142 is a reply to message #14133] |
Thu, 29 July 2010 07:16 |
pleat
Messages: 1454
Registered: June 2004
Location: Belding, Mi
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Senior Member |
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Just a note on the light bulb, on the SS series, charger, commander, sidewinder, challenger, and Hustler amps, the square blue lens cover is not the on/off power switch. Those amps the power switch is on the back panel. Replacing the bulb on the SS series amps is a lot easier than the kustom amps that used the on/off square blue power and polarity switches.
With the amp out of the chassis, I remove all the screws that hold the front panel to the chassis, and tilt it forward to expose the two screws that hold the light assembly, remove the screws, and the blue lens can be pulled off to expose the bulb. unscrew the bulb and replace it.
pleat
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