| 1G+1H cab crossover cap [message #17777] |
Fri, 30 November 2012 00:53  |
kustomhead
Messages: 121
Registered: April 2012
Location: Redding, Ca
|
Senior Member |
|
|
|
I want to get less treble from my 1G+1H cab which has the 15" speaker plus horn. There's a wire from the + on the horn to another terminal on the horn that has FR Belden and what looks to be a written Ten on the wire. Is this a 10uf capacitor wire that I would replace with a 4uf cap to bring the speaker up front? I don't know much about this and would appreciate input.
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: 1G+1H cab crossover cap [message #17780 is a reply to message #17777] |
Fri, 30 November 2012 11:21  |
Kustom_Bart
Messages: 601
Registered: October 2010
Location: Greenville, MichiGUN
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Pleat and me discussed installing level controls in 3 x 15 siren cabs by mounting the control behind the port tube so you can reach through and adjust the level. However, I use mine just the way that they are with my Drive Rack by dbx and you will not find a better sounding PA, clean, clear not overly harsh on the top with just the stock 40 year old cap making the cross for the highs.
Pleat can tell you that it works very well, but you are looking for something different, aren't you?
For a guitar cab the line level control may be a good addition as if it has to much high end for you, you can simply turn it down. Make a bracket that will mount so you can just reach it in the port tube and so it doesn't block the port tube and you will be golden. Buy a couple of different caps a 4k and a 5k and try them and see what you like better.
We have also considered this, taking a 3 x 15 siren cab and making it a 3 way cab by installing a low end Altec 421 in the bottom and sectioning off the cab, but first turning the baffle board upside down to get the ports at the bottom for the low end. Then using an Altec 418 and the siren horn separated for a 2 way main cab. Use a 6 pin speakon connector and a 6 terminal wire and away you go. So flip the baffle board 180 degrees to get the ports on the bottom and section off that part for the sub, and use the top for your 2 way main. I am not sure if it would be enough room, but it would be fun to try.
[Updated on: Fri, 30 November 2012 11:27] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: 1G+1H cab crossover cap [message #17785 is a reply to message #17783] |
Fri, 30 November 2012 12:11 |
Kustom_Bart
Messages: 601
Registered: October 2010
Location: Greenville, MichiGUN
|
Senior Member |
|
|
What you have is resistor wire, it was a common thing they used it on cars back in the 60's to drop the voltage to the distributor from 12v to 7-8v so it didn't burn the points up. You simply un hook one end of it and install whatever you want for a cap the 4uf or 5 uf like suggested by Pleat (in the same place as the wire)to change the crossover point. It will not change the ohm load. Nothing will change that unless you wire the cab different or change the ohm rating of the speaker of driver on the horn.
Pleat lives about 6-7 miles from me and I have known him for about 35 years or so, we talk Kustom stuff all the time.
[Updated on: Fri, 30 November 2012 12:18] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: 1G+1H cab crossover cap [message #17804 is a reply to message #17777] |
Fri, 30 November 2012 21:57 |
Kustom_Bart
Messages: 601
Registered: October 2010
Location: Greenville, MichiGUN
|
Senior Member |
|
|
it means you are crossing the horn at around 9khz and that makes sense why your speaker is getting stronger as the other way it was crossing around 2khz. Look at the second chart under the 8ohm section and you are pretty close. No need to do the math as it is already done for you.
[Updated on: Fri, 30 November 2012 22:03] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: 1G+1H cab crossover cap [message #17807 is a reply to message #17777] |
Fri, 30 November 2012 22:07 |
Kustom_Bart
Messages: 601
Registered: October 2010
Location: Greenville, MichiGUN
|
Senior Member |
|
|
There is no way to tell if it was a factory seal as it used to be a foam gasket in there that turned to tar after all of these years. You take one apart and put it back together and it sticks like glue again.
If Pleat says it didn't come that way, I would be inclined to trust what he is saying, as he knew the original engineer from Kustom, Bob Brinkman. People do strange things to these Kustoms. I have seen more cobbled up stuff than you can imagine and I mean just overly cobbled, but they still worked, I just make them right again or my tech does. LOL! 
I have a bunch of mint stuff and nearly all of it has been apart one time in its life or another. Looks can be deceiving.
[Updated on: Fri, 30 November 2012 22:10] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: 1G+1H cab crossover cap [message #17881 is a reply to message #17880] |
Tue, 11 December 2012 08:14 |
C4ster
Messages: 686
Registered: June 2001
Location: Mukwonago, WI (Milwaukee...
|
Senior Member |
|
|
The 1.1uF cap crosses over much higher than a normal crossover and that does make a lot of sense. The ear responds to midrange frequencies better than highs or lows, hence the need for bass and treble controls on audio equipment. Your 15" will roll off approaching the midrange frequencies, 2500 to 6000 Hz and then the horn will pick back up approaching 9000 Hz. That rolls off the offending midrange frequencies quite nicely.
Well done!
Conrad
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: 1G+1H cab crossover cap [message #17886 is a reply to message #17777] |
Tue, 11 December 2012 15:45 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006
Registered: April 2003
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Distortion signals are usually made up of square waves which are very rich in high harmonic content. So horns can be stressed with more signal than normal when used to reproduce distorted waveforms.
No speaker like to reproduce square waves as they are very stressful to the mechanics of the moving parts.
|
|
|
|
VintageKustom.com
Search
Help
Members
Register
Login
Home
]