Replacing power cable on K200 [message #25538] |
Wed, 14 September 2016 11:43 ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
GunHillRoyal
Messages: 7 Registered: June 2015 Location: Los Angeles
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Junior Member |
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Hey guys, is there anything I should know about replacing the power cable on my K200? I need to replace it with a longer one and I've never opened up one of these Kustom heads before.
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Re: Replacing power cable on K200 [message #25540 is a reply to message #25539] |
Wed, 14 September 2016 12:35 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
chicagobill
Messages: 2005 Registered: April 2003
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Senior Member |
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The original two wire cord enters the back of the chassis, snakes through the chassis and is usually cable tied to one of the large filter caps to keep it in place. From there it goes to the fuse block and to the back of the power switch.
If you are switching to a three wire cord, then you can remove the line reverse cap that goes from the back of the switch to the chassis and then use that chassis ground connection point for the new green ground wire. Just connect the new hot lead (black) to the connection point where the old black wire was and the new neutral (white) wire to where the old one was.
Officially, the line reverse wiring should be removed from the switch, but Kustom had the switches manufactured with the wiring built into the terminals of the switch, which makes the removal a bit harder. Most people just leave it as is.
Ask if you have any questions.
Edit: Forgot to mention that the original cords were basically vacuum cleaner cords, so a few of the guys here order new 25 foot, three wire vacuum cleaner cords as replacements.
[Updated on: Wed, 14 September 2016 12:37] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Replacing power cable on K200 [message #25542 is a reply to message #25538] |
Wed, 14 September 2016 13:27 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
stevem
Messages: 4759 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
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Senior Member |
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The cable goes into the amp atleast 5 inches before getting to its connection point , so if the cable looks physically ok at the back of the amp , then YES get in there and see what going on before something shorts out that should not!
[Updated on: Wed, 14 September 2016 13:28] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Replacing power cable on K200 [message #25548 is a reply to message #25543] |
Wed, 14 September 2016 17:48 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
chicagobill
Messages: 2005 Registered: April 2003
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Senior Member |
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That is a very common problem. The strain relief compresses the cord and too many flexes will cause the inner conductor to break from fatigue.
Pop out the strain relief and move the cord in by a few inches. Cut and splice the two ends and you should be good to go.
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