| K100-2 Speaker Cabinet Help [message #14354] |
Fri, 17 September 2010 17:03  |
tdbassman
Messages: 5
Registered: September 2010
Location: Texas
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Junior Member |
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Greetings. I'm new to the forum (always been a tube guy), but I like the old K100-2 amp (Kustom 100) with the 2-12 cabinet that I just got. It is missing a speaker and I need to find the 8 speaker mounting bolts/studs for the speaker cabinet. They seem to be a speciality bolt with a flat head that digs securely into the wood, and I can't seem to find a replacement. I'm not even sure what they are called - but none of the local hardware stores or speciality screw places have ever seen them. Also, where would I find the replacement grill cloth & footswitch? Thanks and regards, Tom D.
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| Re: K100-2 Speaker Cabinet Help [message #14377 is a reply to message #14354] |
Thu, 23 September 2010 09:53  |
stevem
Messages: 4775
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
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Senior Member |
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Hello and welcome to the joint!
This speaker mounting hardware is a pain to find, what I do now to remount speaker`s is as follows and note that all the items I list will be form the same supply source.
I use what is called Tee nuts to remount speakers when I have the grill cloth off.
These go into the grill cloth side/face of the baffle by means of drilling out the original screw stud hole a bit larger and then hammering them into the baffle board.
Also to be on the safe side I spread some epoxie under them and over the out side of them to keep them in place.
Before re-installing the grill cloth you can paint over them with flat black to hide them.
The part number for a 5 pack of them is S-NTN1032. These are 10/32 size, so to mount the speaker you will have to get the needed lenght 10/32 screws from a hardware store to bolt the driver down.
The black grill cloth is part number S-G296, and is 34" tall, so the purchase or one yard may do you, but be sue to check.
Next up is the speaker.
If the speaker cabinet is the orginal one that came with the -2 head, and was made before late 1969 It should have come from the factory with Jensen C12N drivers.
The lable on the rear of the magnet should be gold and black, on the mounting lip of the driver their should be a string of six digets, the first three should be 220 which is the Jensen code.
The speaker cabinet jack plate should say Jensen on it.
If it says CTS then this was a Bass guitar cab.
If it says KEI this is a real late issue cabinet and this driver was used for guitar and most had a shinny Aluminum voice coil cover with a black vent hole at its center.
In all of these cabinets the drivers where 16 ohm models wired in paralell for a 8 ohm load at the amp.
You should check your one driver you have left to confirm this.
The part number of the Jensen driver you should need to get things back to stock is P-A-C12N, you will have to select the 16 ohm model when placing a order.
Next up the foot switch.
Any two button foot switch will work as long as it has a 1/4" type guitar plug.
Note that on the K100 a switch is only needed to turn off the effect, not turn it on.
Most well stocked music stores carry them and alot of new ones have LEDs on them, you do not need that feture but they will still funtion for you.
A part number for a Marshall foot switch is P-H871.
All of these items are in the on line catalog of Antique electronics.
Let us know how things go.
[Updated on: Thu, 23 September 2010 09:59] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: K100-2 Speaker Cabinet Help [message #14589 is a reply to message #14588] |
Fri, 22 October 2010 13:37 |
pleat
Messages: 1454
Registered: June 2004
Location: Belding, Mi
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Senior Member |
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Some interesting things mentioned. Normally the CTS head would be sold with a K100-1 head. Think back 40 years, dealers all over the country were selling kustoms. A dealer may have had some Jensen cabs, CTS cabs and different K100 heads. Could have been a mix up at the dealer, the customer may have requested the reverb head with the CTS cab for what ever reason. Dealers may have had a hard time getting inventory, so they just sold what ever they had in stock at the time. The head and cabinet may have been the result from someone having one or the other and bought one or the other to make a complete rig. The CTS speakers didn't come standard from the factory with the aluminum dust caps. You may have a CTS speaker that is a recone and at the time of the recone they installed the cone with what they had in stock. If that is the case, then you will want to check the impedance of the speaker to make sure it's 16 ohms. This is part of the intrigue of buying old T&R and removing the back to make sure what is really in the cabinet. Most times everything is original, and sometimes it's a crap shook as to what you may find in the cabinet, not only what brand and condition of the speakers, but what kind of stuff has been inserted into the port holes. I've found golf balls, toys, pop cans and one 3x15 Cab I bought had about 10" of broken long neck beer bottles in the bottom.
There is a collector in Vegas that was making the original round footswitches. He even had the round labels made up for the function of the switches.
pleat
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| Re: K100-2 Speaker Cabinet Help [message #14625 is a reply to message #14354] |
Mon, 25 October 2010 17:30 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006
Registered: April 2003
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Senior Member |
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Pleat:
I didn't know that the two models of the K100s sounded different. I've never owned either one, but it seems odd that they would design them to sound differently from each other.
I'll have to look at the schematics to see what I can find out.
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| Re: K100-2 Speaker Cabinet Help [message #14628 is a reply to message #14625] |
Mon, 25 October 2010 19:56 |
C4ster
Messages: 686
Registered: June 2001
Location: Mukwonago, WI (Milwaukee...
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Senior Member |
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I have both types and the -2 is more like the bright channel in a -1. It can get very thin when driven hard. I am beginning to like CTS 12's or even JBL E140's for guitar an a 1x15 cabinet. I am still experimenting.
Conrad
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| Re: K100-2 Speaker Cabinet Help [message #14676 is a reply to message #14354] |
Mon, 01 November 2010 10:14 |
stevem
Messages: 4775
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
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Senior Member |
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Try working on a Marshall Major, or a Highwatt 200.
The Marshall has 620 volts at idle on the output tube plates, and the Highwatt will wake you up with 730 volts!
Tube amp preamps are very easy to change out a cathode bypass cap and a coupling cap and get drastic change in highs or lows, the 100-2s treble boost circuit is not quite that easy to tweak.
Of course rolling the guitars tone control down should help in the mean time.
A simple low pass resistor and cap set up may hooked up across the amps speaker output may give you enought attenuation in high end and their are many programs you can down load to model what value componets you need to make it.
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