Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4367] |
Fri, 18 June 2004 17:18 ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
fuzzy4dice
Messages: 49 Registered: June 2004 Location: NJ
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Hi!
Just bought (what I believe to be) a Kustom 100 bass amp. The cab has one 15" speaker and I want to see the back of it so that I can see what kind of speaker it is.
I took all the screws off of the back panel on the cabinet but I'm having a hard time getting it off. How is this done?
I tried pushing it through the portholes...but I felt I was doing it to hard and got scared.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
ezt
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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4368 is a reply to message #4367] |
Fri, 18 June 2004 20:25 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
KustomBlues
Messages: 490 Registered: June 2001 Location: Michigan
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Have you tried using a bread knife between the edges around the cab back and the sides? Stick it in there are try prying it gently. There is a seal that usually gets sticky over the years and kinda poops it all up. Make sure that you take aALL the screws out of the back of the cabinet. I am assuming that this is a speaker cabinet and not a combo, correct?
Deb
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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4371 is a reply to message #4370] |
Sat, 19 June 2004 09:47 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
RoyC
Messages: 97 Registered: April 2000 Location: East Central Illinois
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I would think that pushing it out through the porthole would be the ideal way - better than the butter knife method. Like Deb says, all the screws need to be out (except the jackplate). There should be sufficient slack in the wires to accomodate this.
I wish my hand was small enough that I could just reach through the porthole. Let us know what treasures you find in there.
[Updated on: Sun, 27 June 2004 19:27] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4374 is a reply to message #4367] |
Mon, 21 June 2004 07:05 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
stevem
Messages: 4758 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
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Hi all. Your safest bet is to get a lenght of 2x4 to incert it thru the port, and give that a shot with a hammer. Dont pry, it always rips up the covering on the back panel. Set the cab up so it is standing with its back about 2 inches away from a wall, then when the back pops out you will not over extend the speaker cable.This all my be a moot point. if the speaker jack is still on its original mounting plate, that will say on it what the cab was loaded with, and since the back is so hard to get off its probily been unopened since day one. Heres a tip for original speakers. If their is no shiny aluminum voice coil cover on the center front face of the speaker, and since its a 100 model its a CTS brand speaker, if its got a 3 inch aluminum dome its an altec lansing, if its a 4 inch dome its a jb lansing, these are for bass. Other ones for guitar are, no aluminum dome is jensen, a aluminum dome with a black hole in the center is CTS brand.
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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4391 is a reply to message #4380] |
Thu, 24 June 2004 11:00 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
KustomBlues
Messages: 490 Registered: June 2001 Location: Michigan
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The K100-1 is a bass head. It sounds much better for guitar too, as long as you use an effects unit. In a side by side comparison with a 100-2, using the same cab via and A/B box, the 100-1 has a fatter and warmer sound. The 100-2 has a thinner, sometimes screechier sound. Between those 2 models, I prefer a 100-1 head, and I play bass and guitar. (I really love the 250 heads) When you add the extra frills the 100-2 head offers, it affects the end sound. Do a side by side comparison for yourself. I know pleat has done this as well...
[Updated on: Thu, 24 June 2004 11:02] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4412 is a reply to message #4410] |
Thu, 01 July 2004 11:37 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
chicagobill
Messages: 2005 Registered: April 2003
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ezt:
I think what everyone is trying to say here, is that the K-100 head is a 50 watt r.m.s. amp and it will only reach maximum power output with an 8 ohm load. Using the 16 ohm speaker that you have in the cabinet will reduce the power output by maybe 20%-30%, allowing your 50 watt amp to develop only about 35-40 watts. So in order to get the most out of your K-100 head, change the speaker to an efficient 8 ohm speaker, or add a second 16 ohm cabinet.
Remember that the head is only 50 watts. Not a lot of power for bass by today's standards. Back in the day, 50 or 100 watt amps were state of the art.
Bill
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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #4423 is a reply to message #4412] |
Mon, 05 July 2004 19:28 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
KustomBlues
Messages: 490 Registered: June 2001 Location: Michigan
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Bass guitar demands more power to generate the tone you need. A 50 watt head will work fine for most practice situations, but you can always mic your setup out in the live situation too, as long as you can hear yourself and your PA has some goos subs.
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Re: Removing The Rear Cabinet Panel [message #7737 is a reply to message #7727] |
Mon, 16 October 2006 11:57 ![Go to previous message Go to previous message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/up.png) ![Go to next message Go to next message](/FUDforum/theme/vk30/images/down.png) |
C4ster
Messages: 686 Registered: June 2001 Location: Mukwonago, WI (Milwaukee...
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I found simple mineral spirits work well. Just use a putty knife or other scraper to remove the heavy stuff and then use a soaked paper towel or paper shop towel to remove the remnants. It is a b*tch of a job though. Put closed foam self adhesive weather stripping in its place to keep the cabinet from porting air out the back from around the perimiter when you are finished.
Good luck
Conrad
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