I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23656] |
Tue, 18 August 2015 17:41 |
corybrown
Messages: 51 Registered: August 2015
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First time poster, thanks in advance for any info you can give me.
I rescued an old Kustom bass amp from my dad's garage/barn. This thing has been in the weather and is in pretty bad shape but much to my surprise it turned on.
It is a model K150-6. I remember using this thing when I was a kid so I know it is older than the early 80's but I'm not sure how old.
The serial number is 64583. pat no 210,129.
Can anyone tell me how what year this was made or where I can find out?
Also in the center of the two sets of controls on the front is a little cap that screws off and appears to have a button inside of it. What is that?
Thanks
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23661 is a reply to message #23656] |
Wed, 19 August 2015 02:35 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006 Registered: April 2003
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Welcome to the place. The replacement lamp for your amp is a #1829 bulb, 28 volts. They are available online from electronics suppliers like Mouser or Jameco. They can also be found on eBay and Amazon.
As for the speaker, it might help to know what style of music you play and what instrument you will be playing through the amp.
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23663 is a reply to message #23656] |
Wed, 19 August 2015 06:32 |
stevem
Messages: 4774 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
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I had a shed, not a Barn find K200 head some years ago and externally it looked dam good for being stowed away for the time that it was, however on the inside it was Feild mouse Hotel and then some!
If I where you I woukd pull the back off the cabinet, unplug the speaker and remove the 4 under shelf screws that hold the chassis in and get a good look in there!
On the one I just posted about the mice had peed so much that two gapping holes where rotted thru the bottom of the chassis and the two transformer output wires where dangling by one or two strands of wire each!
Oh, and Welcome to the place also!
[Updated on: Wed, 19 August 2015 06:32] Report message to a moderator
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23678 is a reply to message #23676] |
Wed, 19 August 2015 21:19 |
C4ster
Messages: 686 Registered: June 2001 Location: Mukwonago, WI (Milwaukee...
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Well, this is my 4th attempt. I keep getting kicked off for some reason. I can't comment on Altecs but I know JBL's pretty well. I have numerous Kustom rigs equipped with JBL E140's and E120's. I also have a K200-A4 with JBL D130's. I also have some JBL cabinets with E130's and 2225H's. I personally love the sound of the E140's for bass. They are very tight but do have limited high end. The D130's were designed in 1947 and continued until 1959 when Leo Fender came to JBL to modify the D130 because the surrounds were drying out. They also increased the voice coil gap but didn't want to create a new product so they added an F to indicate the Fender D130, hence the D130F. Fender also wanted a bass speaker so JBL took parts from the D130 and the D150 bass speaker and created the D140F. The ratings were then increased to 100 watts for the D310F and 150 watts for the D140F. The D130 had an aluminum flat wound voice coil and a stiff cone. The speaker didn't break up like other speakers. The D140F had a copper flat wound voice coil in the same frame as the D130F and a much heavier cone. The frequency response of the D130F was 50 to 6000 Hz and the D140F was 40 to 2500 Hz. Obviously, the voice coil and heavier cone of the D140F limited the speed of the cone, so the lower frequency response. The K series came out later and the E series in the 80's. The frequency response of the D, K, and E series speakers are the same due mostly the voice coils and cones. The power ratings increased with each series. The weight of the E series however is a robust 22 ¼ pounds versus 12 pounds for the D and K.
Conrad
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23680 is a reply to message #23678] |
Wed, 19 August 2015 21:29 |
pleat
Messages: 1454 Registered: June 2004 Location: Belding, Mi
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I've been getting kicked off from one day to the next, so I type my message the highlight it and right click copy. Then I hit send, if it kicks me off, i just reopen the site and highlight the text box and right click paste and everything I typed before I got kicked off is right back where it was and I don't have to retype everything.
One thing I've noticed with JBL vs. other brands, JBL labels their terminals opposite most every other manufacturer. + voltage to the red terminal the cone moves inward. EV, CTS, Altec etc, the cone moves outwards.
Never knew why other than I figured a loud blast the cone moving inwards, you don't run the risk of the voice coil moving past the magnetic gap. I'm sure there is a reason JBL had to be different.
pleat
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23681 is a reply to message #23678] |
Wed, 19 August 2015 21:32 |
C4ster
Messages: 686 Registered: June 2001 Location: Mukwonago, WI (Milwaukee...
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Hi Cory,
I was composing that screed above and then 4 more posts came in. For my money, your problem is probably very simple. Generally, solid state components don't go intermittent. They are either good or bad. That would mean that there is a problem in the power amp section. probably a loose connection or solder joint. What is happening that the connection is being lost and the output looses either side of the power supply. That would then place +40 or -40 on the speaker voice coil. That would do exactly what you said it does. Pleat is correct, if left too long, the speaker will be damaged and the only fix is recone. The hum you are getting is to power supply working overtime trying to deliver the voltage necessary. The capacitors would normally remove the hum, but in this condition, the current is so high, it depletes the charge before it can recharge from the rectifier. That can be trouble-shot without the speaker attached without damage if there is nothing shorted and it doesn't seem like it is. If you have a meter, and can use it, disconnect the speaker, power it up and read the voltage at the output jack. it should be around 0 volts. If it is anything else, then more needs to be checked. But don't be surprised if it reads 0. You said, it works then it doesn't. That makes it real hard to fix. You can't fix what isn't broken.
Conrad
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23682 is a reply to message #23680] |
Wed, 19 August 2015 21:39 |
C4ster
Messages: 686 Registered: June 2001 Location: Mukwonago, WI (Milwaukee...
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Hi Pleat,
I actually composed that JBL documentary in Word and copied it in. This is the first day in a long time that I have had this dropout problem. I didn't know there was a timeout on this web site.
As far as the polarity is concerned, that only is important within the same cabinet or 2 cabinets in close proximity. Even across a stage, the phasing is less important. However, point well taken. Thanks
Conrad
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23687 is a reply to message #23656] |
Thu, 20 August 2015 00:32 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006 Registered: April 2003
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Yes, check the thermal bias diode as Pleat has suggested.
There is dc voltage on the speaker and it will damage the voice coil, so unplug the speaker for the time being.
The first things to check are the power amp transistors. Normally if there is a direct short in one of the power transistors, the fuse would blow. So your problem could be one of the smaller transistors or one of the large ballast resistors.
Look at the boards in the amp and write down the pc numbers. Then you can look them up in the technical section of the site.
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23697 is a reply to message #23656] |
Sat, 22 August 2015 09:11 |
corybrown
Messages: 51 Registered: August 2015
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Quote:One thing to look at is the diode that is clipped into clip on the power transistor rail. If this diode is out of its clip. The leads from the diode that are soldered to the circuit board are fragile and can break easy. Just a heads up.
pleat
Checked and it is in the clip. One thing to note is that is slides back and forth a little in the clip, not sure how tight that is supposed to be.
Quote:The first thing I would do is to confirm that the red, green and black wires on the two big main filter cans on the floor of the chassis are intact ( not mouse chewed) and making good connections at each end.
The next very simple thing to do Is in reagards to the black triangle slip on connectors on the two output Transistors.
Sliding these up and down can restore a good connection.
All Wires seems to be intact and all solder joints are firm. I can't visibly see a wiring problem.
I re-seated all of the triangle slip on connectors.
Quote:As posted you do not need the speaker hook up to work on the amp, since your issue is having a negative or positive DC voltage on the speaker Jack you can hook up a voltmeter across the speaker output and confirm when the issue is resolved without risking a blown speaker .
I have a voltmeter but not really sure how to use it to check voltage on a speaker jack. How would I go about this?
Thanks guys.
[Updated on: Sat, 22 August 2015 22:23] Report message to a moderator
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23700 is a reply to message #23656] |
Sun, 23 August 2015 02:52 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006 Registered: April 2003
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Plug a guitar cord into the speaker jack. Set your meter to read dc volts. Connect the black meter lead to the sleeve of the plug at the free end of the cord and connect the red lead to the tip of the plug.
Turn on the amp. If there is dc on the output you will be able to read it on the meter. Note the reading that you get. The most that it could be is about 40 volts. In your case, I will guess that it is much lower than that.
The diode clip does not need to be tight, it just needs to hold the diode near the heatsink, so that it will track the temperature of the output transistors.
If the dc voltage on the output comes and goes, then there may be a cold solder joint on the output pc board. You could try tapping the board with an insulated probe to see if you can find loose part.
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Re: I rescued this amp from my dads barn [message #23706 is a reply to message #23656] |
Mon, 24 August 2015 12:26 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006 Registered: April 2003
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Senior Member |
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I'm still thinking that there is something loose in there. So that we are all on the same page, post the pc board numbers that you have in the amp.
It may be best to start a new thread in the repair section, as this one has gotten long and a bit off track here and there.
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