Parts for PA 300 [message #23000] |
Sat, 30 May 2015 06:32 |
fieldflower
Messages: 71 Registered: July 2004 Location: Sweden
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Hi,
I'm trying to get stuff together to complete my "new" 300 PA.
The stuff I'm missing:
- A jack (the "To monitor module" one).
If You could tell me a replacement jack that's similar enough that'd be great.
- Washers and nuts for some of the front panel jacks (both washers).
Just dimensions would be good, so I buy the right ones (and don't break the jack threads...)
- A couple of the rubber thingy screws/nuts for the reverb tank.
Is there some kind of replacement for this?
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Re: Parts for PA 300 [message #23005 is a reply to message #23000] |
Sat, 30 May 2015 11:37 |
fieldflower
Messages: 71 Registered: July 2004 Location: Sweden
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Member |
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Yes, finding a new jack for the Monitor out should be fairly easy (if the cut cable can still reach the jack... ).
And it doesn't matter enormously to me that it looks stock on the inside, so any metal mono jack will do...
Tried a couple of stores for washers, nuts and some kind of rubber mount thingy but came up empty.
Washers they had but not the right thickness, so I'll keep looking for those at the same time as the jack nuts.
The loose jacks will have to hang on the inside a while longer I guess. It should be pretty standard instrument jack nut size (although there are a few different), so I'll keep looking.
Didn't even find a nut for the rubber mounting (I have 3 rubber thingys but only 2 nuts).
I resorted to steel wire, just so I can try the thing out sitting on 3 mounts.
Finding a donor amp is a little challenging in Sweden...
I've only seen 6 TnR Kustoms overall in ads, IRL, etc, and I own 3 of them. (The other 3 were two 250's and one Hustler).
And even if I found one I'd quickly adopt it and promise it that everything would be ok...
Now off to try it...
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Re: Parts for PA 300 [message #23006 is a reply to message #23000] |
Sat, 30 May 2015 12:11 |
stevem
Messages: 4773 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
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Senior Member |
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I have had to make the vibration stand offs to mount the reverb tank.
Get some black silicone sealer and some machine screws and nuts, here in the states I use 6/32 size stuff.
Place a oversize blob on a Ciramic plate and set you two screws in the stuff.
Support the screw ends with something to get them level and in plane with each other and then let the silicone fully set up, when it has cut if off the plate with a single edge blade and then further trim it up to get it kinda square in shape like the stock factory one was.
This is about the best your going to do for a replacement other then making a plastic box form and using a latex casting compound which cost 8 times more than a tube of automotive silicone, but also the Laytex will not hold the screws as well!
[Updated on: Sat, 30 May 2015 12:14] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Parts for PA 300 [message #23011 is a reply to message #23000] |
Sat, 30 May 2015 21:45 |
chicagobill
Messages: 2006 Registered: April 2003
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Senior Member |
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Do you have an ohm meter? If you do, use it to read the resistance across the input and the output jacks of the reverb tank. You should read approximately 150-200 ohms.
If you get this resistance reading, then the tank coils are okay. If either side is off, then you have a problem with the tank coils or the internal wiring, etc.
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Re: Parts for PA 300 [message #23017 is a reply to message #23000] |
Sun, 31 May 2015 08:02 |
stevem
Messages: 4773 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
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Senior Member |
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Bill may be right I can not say as my 300 has no tank and its reverb circuit is not like the non pa metal face amps as its driven by transistors and not a 5558 chip, and on the out bound side it's the oposite also with a IC chip instead of a transistor!
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